Antiques and flea markets in Istanbul: Çukurcuma, Feriköy, Horhor

Çukurcuma: the neighbourhood's antique dealers

Çukurcuma is Istanbul's antiques district. The shops are spread around Çukurcuma Street, Faik Paşa Street and Turnacıbaşı Street (which leaves İstiklal), and spill over towards Cihangir. You find furniture and chandeliers from the late Ottoman Empire, 19th-century oil paintings, porcelain, suitcases, appliances and objects from the 1950s to the 1980s. Orhan Pamuk's Museum of Innocence is in the middle of the district.

Prices are those of city-centre shops, higher than at a flea market: for more affordable objects, see Feriköy. The appeal of Çukurcuma is the stroll, the quality of the selection and the chance to talk to dealers who know their stock. For the district and its cafés, see Cihangir and Çukurcuma.

The Feriköy flea market

The Feriköy antiques market (Feriköy Antika Pazarı), in the Feriköy area of Şişli, is held on Sundays, generally from 9am to 6pm, with more than two hundred stalls: old books, records, postcards, silverware, watches, second-hand clothes, toys and knick-knacks. Sources disagree about a possible Friday opening: count on Sunday. Go in the morning for the best choice, before the afternoon crowds.

To get there, the simplest way is the M2 metro to Osmanbey and then on foot, or a taxi from Taksim; check the route in a maps app before leaving. See also our guide to shopping in Istanbul for the other markets.

Horhor Antikacılar Çarşısı

Horhor, in Aksaray, is one of the largest antiques markets in the city: a building of several floors (seven, according to some sources) with more than two hundred antique shops. Unlike Çukurcuma, which is a district to explore, Horhor is a single building that gathers hundreds of antique shops under one roof, handy in bad weather. Hours listed online differ, especially for Sunday: check before you come, and preferably go on a weekday or Saturday.

Aksaray is served by the T1 tram from Sultanahmet; check the exact address and the walk from the stop in a maps app.

How to buy

• Haggling is normal, in shops and at markets; start by asking for "the last price", and be ready to walk away if the price does not suit you.
• Authenticity: objects sold as "Ottoman" are not always old. Ask for details, compare several shops and only buy an expensive piece if you trust the dealer.
• Payment: cash makes discussion easier; cards are accepted in many Çukurcuma shops, less so at markets. See money, payment and tipping in Istanbul.
• Scams: be wary of people who approach you to take you to "their" shop; see scams and safety in Istanbul.
• Large objects: ask whether the dealer arranges shipping and solid packing.

Bringing an old object home

Turkey protects its heritage: exporting old objects or antiquities may require a permit, issued by a museum. Ask the dealer for a detailed invoice, say that you want to take the object out of the country, and ask an archaeological museum or customs before buying an archaeological or very old piece. For a recent object or a reproduction the question matters less, but it is better to ask the dealer. For more classic souvenirs, see shopping in Istanbul: what to bring back.

Summary

Going further

Combine Çukurcuma with a walk through Beyoğlu and Taksim and the Tünel funicular. For other shops and things to take home, see the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar.