The three clubs and their stadiums
| Club | Founded | Stadium | District | Capacity (approx.) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Beşiktaş | 1903 | Tüpraş Stadyumu | Beşiktaş, European side | 42,000 |
| Galatasaray | 1905 | RAMS Park | Seyrantepe, Sarıyer, European side | 53,000 |
| Fenerbahçe | 1907 | Şükrü Saracoğlu (Chobani Stadyumu) | Kadıköy, Asian side | 48,000 |
Stadium names change with sponsorship deals. Each club has its own identity and supporters: yellow and red for Galatasaray, yellow and navy blue for Fenerbahçe, black and white for Beşiktaş. The atmospheres vary, but all are intense: almost non-stop chanting, packed stands, a very partisan crowd.
The calendar
The Süper Lig season runs roughly from August to May, with a winter break. Matches are played at the weekend or on weekdays, most often in the evening. Calendars are published by the federation and the clubs, and kick-off times are often set a few days ahead: do not book your flight or hotel around a match before you have seen the confirmed time. The big derbies (Galatasaray–Fenerbahçe, Beşiktaş–Galatasaray, Beşiktaş–Fenerbahçe) are the most expensive and the hardest to get into.
Buying a ticket: the Passo system
Süper Lig tickets are sold through the Passo system, which has replaced the old Passolig card. For a foreign visitor, the simplest route, according to the guides consulted:
- Create a Passo account on passo.com.tr or in the Passo app (an English version is available).
- Get the prepaid digital card "Passo Taraftar" with your passport number: no visit to an office is needed, the card is in the app, and its announced price is in the region of 100 to 200 TL.
- Buy your seat on the Passo website or app, or at the stadium ticket offices. Tickets generally go on sale three to five days before the match.
- On match day, show the QR code from the app at the gate, with your passport.
Do not trust street sellers or unofficial resale sites: the ticket is tied to your Passo account, and a resold ticket can be refused at the gate. Agencies and resale platforms show higher prices than the ticket office. For European matches, the arrangements are set by the club and UEFA. Prices vary greatly with the match and the stand, and we give none: check Passo for the day's prices.
Getting there
- Beşiktaş (Tüpraş Stadyumu): the stadium is next to Dolmabahçe Palace, close to the centre. T1 tram to Kabataş, or ferry to Beşiktaş or Kabataş, then walk. More information in our guide to the Beşiktaş district.
- Galatasaray (RAMS Park): metro M2, Seyrantepe station, in the north of the city, with direct access to the stadium. Allow time: the metro can be packed before and after the match.
- Fenerbahçe (Şükrü Saracoğlu): by ferry to Kadıköy, then bus or taxi; the Marmaray and the metrobus stop at Söğütlüçeşme, nearby. See our guide to Kadıköy and the Asian side.
Networks and fares are detailed in our guide to transport in Istanbul. Avoid the car and the taxi when leaving the stadium: the streets are blocked. Plan to walk, or go home by public transport a little later.
What to do before and after the match
- In Beşiktaş, stop by the fish market, the restaurants in the alleys and Dolmabahçe Palace, close by (closed on Monday).
- Near the Beşiktaş stadium, the Naval Museum is a short walk from the pier, and Maçka Park offers a green break on the heights.
- On the Asian side, arrive early in Kadıköy for the market and the Moda promenade; Fenerbahçe Park and Bağdat Avenue complete the day.
- For a companion who is not a football fan, the Museum of Painting and Sculpture, in Tophane, fills the afternoon well.
Practical tips
- Arrive an hour before kick-off, and keep your passport on you: it may be checked, and the queues to get in are long.
- Avoid the colours of a rival club in the stadium and on the way home.
- Choose your match carefully: an ordinary league match is easier to enjoy than a derby, which is more tense.
- Safety: follow the stewards' instructions and read our guide to scams and safety in Istanbul.
- The rest of the evening: to carry on, see our guide to nightlife in Istanbul.
