How to travel along the coast
Three ways to do it, which can be combined:
- Bus 15 (Üsküdar–Beykoz, with several variants) runs along the waterfront road and serves the villages one by one; you take it in Üsküdar, which you reach by ferry from Eminönü, Karaköy, Kabataş or Beşiktaş, or by Marmaray. It is the most flexible way to stop wherever you like. See our guide to getting around Istanbul.
- By boat: the Şehir Hatları long cruise, leaving from Eminönü, stops at Üsküdar, Kanlıca and Anadolu Kavağı, the end of the line (640 TL return for foreign passengers, about 6 hours including the stop). See the entry for the Bosphorus cruise.
- On foot: the seafront road can be walked between several neighbouring villages (Üsküdar–Kuzguncuk, Anadolu Hisarı–Küçüksu) but does not form a continuous walk.
Kuzguncuk: the village of four faiths
A few stops from Üsküdar, Kuzguncuk is the most accessible and pleasant of the coastal villages: colourful wooden houses, İcadiye Street lined with cafés and shops, an Armenian church, a mosque and synagogues side by side. Allow half a day with lunch. It is the best first stop if time is short.
Beylerbeyi: the summer palace
Further north, at the foot of the 15 July Martyrs Bridge, Beylerbeyi Palace is the great visit of the Asian shore: a summer palace of 1863-1865 with terraced gardens. See the entry for prices and hours, and our guide to the Ottoman palaces of Istanbul to compare it with the others.
Çengelköy: tea by the water
Beyond the bridge, Çengelköy is a waterfront village known for its wooden houses, its cucumbers (the "Çengelköy cucumber" is a local speciality) and the cafés at the ferry stop, where you drink tea with your feet almost in the water. On the shore stands the large neo-Gothic building of the Kuleli military school. A stop for a tea, not a visit with opening hours.
Kandilli: the observatory and the yalı
Kandilli occupies a headland on a bend of the Bosphorus; the shore is lined with yalı, the wooden mansions built right at the water's edge, and the Kandilli Observatory overlooks the village. Best seen from the road or from the boat rather than as a visit.
Anadolu Hisarı and Küçüksu: fortress and pavilion
At the point where the strait narrows, the Anadolu Hisarı fortress, built in 1393-1394, faces Rumeli Hisarı on the European shore. A little further north, the Küçüksu Pavilion, at the mouth of the Göksu stream, is a small Rococo palace of 1856-1857. You can walk between the two in a few minutes: it is the right combination for half a day.
Kanlıca, Çubuklu and Beykoz
Kanlıca is known to Istanbulites for its yoghurt, sold near the ferry stop, and for its bay. The village is a stop on the long cruise. At Çubuklu, the Khedive's Pavilion (Hıdiv Kasrı), in Art Nouveau style, overlooks the Kanlıca bay, with a garden café. Further on, Beykoz is a small seaside town with the Beykoz shoe factory (Kundura), converted into a cultural venue. This stretch is covered mostly by bus or boat; opening hours vary, so check before you go.
Anadolu Kavağı and Yoros Castle: the end of the Bosphorus
The end of the long cruise, Anadolu Kavağı is a fishing village with its harbour and fish restaurants. The ruins of Yoros Castle, which overlook it, give a view over the entrance to the Black Sea; the climb is on foot from the village. See the entry for Anadolu Kavağı and Yoros Castle.
A one-day itinerary
- Morning: ferry to Üsküdar, then bus 15 to Kuzguncuk (stroll and coffee), then on to Beylerbeyi.
- Midday: lunch in Çengelköy or Anadolu Hisarı, facing the water.
- Afternoon: Anadolu Hisarı and Küçüksu, then back by bus to Üsküdar; or, for the more adventurous, continue to Kanlıca and Beykoz.
- Longer: a full day at Anadolu Kavağı via the Şehir Hatları long cruise.
Practical tips
- The right day: on a weekday, when the villages are quiet; at weekends, the waterfront cafés are full.
- The palaces: Beylerbeyi and Küçüksu are closed on Monday.
- Eating: fish in the harbours, tea and simit in the cafés by the ferry stop; for places and types of restaurant, see what to eat in Istanbul.
- Finding your way: the villages follow one another along a single road, and bus 15 is easy to follow; have your Istanbulkart ready.
- Going further: back in Üsküdar, our guide to Kadıköy and Moda extends the day on the Asian shore, further south.
