Edirne, on the border with Greece and Bulgaria, was the capital of the Ottoman Empire from 1363 to 1453, before the conquest of Constantinople. The city kept a group of imperial mosques, madrasas and bazaars that you can explore on foot. The jewel is the Selimiye Mosque, a masterpiece by the architect Sinan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011. Edirne is about 240 kilometres from Istanbul, two and a half to three hours by road: the trip can be done in a day if you leave early, but a night on the spot makes the visit far more pleasant.
Highlights

The Selimiye Mosque
Built from 1568 to 1575 for Sultan Selim II, it is crowned by a central dome that Sinan wanted at least as wide as that of Hagia Sophia, carried on eight piers and flanked by four slender minarets rising above 70 metres. The very bright interior is decorated with tiles and calligraphy.

The Selimiye courtyard and madrasa
The arcaded courtyard of the mosque and its madrasa buildings form a complex (külliye) with the Arasta bazaar, lined with shops whose rents were meant to fund the upkeep of the mosque. The madrasa houses a museum.
The Eski Cami and the Three-Balconied Mosque
The Eski Cami ("old mosque"), completed in 1414, is known for its huge wall calligraphies; the Üç Şerefeli ("three balconies") mosque, from 1447, has a minaret with three galleries and a large courtyard. They show how Ottoman architecture evolved before the Selimiye.
The Bayezid II complex
On the banks of the Tunca, away from the centre, this 15th-century complex included a mosque, a hospital and a medical school; it now houses a health museum that recalls how patients were treated in Ottoman times, with music and water.
The Ali Paşa bazaar and the bridges
The covered Ali Paşa Çarşısı bazaar, designed by Sinan in the 16th century, is the trading heart of the city. The old stone bridges over the Tunca and the Meriç, the two rivers that frame Edirne, are pleasant to walk across towards the end of the afternoon.
Infos pratiques
Tips
Opening hours, museum admission fees and coach timetables change from season to season: check them before you leave on the operator's website and with the museums. The Selimiye is a working mosque: visit outside the five daily prayers and the Friday midday prayer, with shoulders and knees covered, hair covered for women and shoes removed at the entrance. Edirne's specialities are best tried on the spot: tava ciğeri (fried veal liver in small pieces, served with chilli), badem ezmesi (almond paste) and fruit-shaped soaps. In late June the city hosts the Kırkpınar oil wrestling, the oldest competition of its kind: hotels are then full. Edirne is close to the border: keep your passport with you.
How to get there
Selimiye Mosque, Hürriyet Square (Edirne). From Istanbul the simplest option is the coach: several companies leave from the big Esenler bus station (Büyük İstanbul Otogarı), served by metro line M1, to Edirne bus station, from where a dolmuş or taxi takes you to the centre. Allow two and a half to three hours for the journey. You can also drive on the motorway, or take the train: check timetables with the railway company TCDD. More details in our guide to getting around Istanbul.
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