Kumkapı, Samatya and Yedikule: the old city on the Sea of Marmara

A walking route from Sultanahmet to Yedikule

The simplest way is to start from Sultanahmet and walk south-west, towards the sea. One possible sequence, about 4 to 5 km in total depending on detours:

1. the Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque and the Little Hagia Sophia, near the Hippodrome of Constantinople, for a gentle start;
2. Kumkapı, for the square and the lanes, or for dinner;
3. the seafront promenade, then Samatya;
4. Yedikule Fortress, at the end of the route.

Allow half a day if you visit Yedikule, longer if you have lunch or dinner on the way. The trip between Kumkapı and Yedikule can also be made by taxi or suburban train if you are tired: see below.

Kumkapı: meyhane and fish

Kumkapı is a former district of fishermen and sailors, a few hundred metres from the Grand Bazaar on the sea side. It became famous for its central square and the neighbouring lanes, lined with fish restaurants, meyhane (taverns where mezze are shared) and terraces. In the evening the tables spill out onto the streets, musicians pass between them, waiters invite passers-by in: the atmosphere is lively and very touristy, which is exactly what many visitors enjoy.

The district is also a historic Armenian place: the Armenian Patriarchate of Constantinople has its seat here, at the church of Surp Asdvadzadzin ("Holy Mother of God"). A few schools and institutions of the community remain. If you pass by in the daytime, look at the church from the street; it may be closed outside services.

To eat in Kumkapı without unpleasant surprises:

• ask the prices before ordering, especially for fish, sold by weight, and for mezze served without a menu;
• do not let yourself be rushed by a waiter waiting on the pavement: look at two or three menus and choose;
• check the bill (number of dishes, drinks, cover charge) before paying, and plan a bigger budget than in a neighbourhood restaurant;
• come in the evening: that is when the district comes alive; in the daytime it is much quieter.

For a full guide to fish, meyhane and the Bosphorus villages, read our article where to eat fish in Istanbul.

Samatya: a fishing district with Armenian and Greek churches

Samatya (Psamathia in Greek) is a working-class residential district that slopes down to the sea. Once home to large Armenian and Greek communities, it keeps several churches still in use, including the Armenian church of Surp Kevork and the Greek church of Aghios Georgios. They are not monuments with fixed visiting hours: you see them from outside, and go in during services or if a door is open, with respect for worshippers.

The centre of the district, around Samatya square, has small meyhane, fishmongers, pastry shops and cafés used more by residents than by tourists: it is the quiet version of Kumkapı, more local and cheaper in practice. The seafront is a long park with a promenade, where people fish with rods and sit in the evening: the view takes in the Sea of Marmara and the cargo ships offshore.

Yedikule Fortress

At the end of Samatya, Yedikule Fortress guards the Golden Gate, a former late-Roman triumphal arch built into the Theodosian Walls, and seven towers, four of which were added by Mehmed II. It has been a treasury, an arsenal and then a state prison; you can climb onto the ramparts for views of the Sea of Marmara. It is open Tuesday to Sunday, 9:00 to 17:00; see our detailed page on Yedikule Fortress for prices, tips and history.

Along the Theodosian Walls, you can continue north along the land wall: see our page on the Theodosian Walls and, for the conquest of 1453, the Panorama 1453 Museum, further north along the same line.

Getting there and back

Marmaray and the other lines are paid with the Istanbulkart: fares are detailed in our guide to transport in Istanbul.

Practical tips

• When to come: in the daytime for Samatya and Yedikule, in the evening for Kumkapı. Avoid Monday for Yedikule (closed).
• Safety: the district is safe by day; at night, stay in Kumkapı's busy streets and take a taxi home. For the usual traps, see our guide to scams and safety in Istanbul.
• Churches: dress modestly and keep quiet; do not take photos during a service.
• Going further: combine this route with the nearby Sultanahmet district.