Christmas in Istanbul: what to know
Christmas is not a national holiday in Turkey: 25 December is an ordinary day, and offices, banks and transport run as usual. A Christmas atmosphere does exist, though, especially in Beyoğlu and Nişantaşı, where illuminated decorations in shops and streets appear from mid-December. They are put up for New Year, known as yılbaşı, more than for Christmas. The trees you see in shop windows are in fact "yılbaşı trees".
For Christian travellers, the good news is that Istanbul's very old communities hold services open to everyone.
Christmas Masses and services
Several churches in Beyoğlu celebrate Christmas in several languages: the Catholic Church of St Anthony of Padua on İstiklal Avenue, the Cathedral of the Holy Spirit in Harbiye, the Church of Santa Maria Draperis, and the Anglican Crimean Memorial Church. The parishes post the programme a day or two beforehand: a vigil Mass on the evening of 24 December (often preceded by carols), and Masses on 25 December in English, Italian, French, Polish or Turkish depending on the church.
Times change from year to year: check the parish website or noticeboard a few days beforehand rather than relying on an old programme. Arrive 30 to 45 minutes before the vigil Mass: churches are full, a security check at the entrance is possible, and dress should stay modest.
The Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople, in Fener, celebrates Christmas on 25 December. St George's Church, which you usually visit as part of the Balat and Fener district, hosts the liturgy on Christmas Day: to attend, stay at the back, cover up and follow the church's instructions. The Armenian community celebrates Christmas on 6 January, with services in its churches, notably in Kumkapı.
Decorations and end-of-year atmosphere
From mid-December, İstiklal Street, the Nişantaşı district and the shopping centres light up. Winter markets and children's entertainment sometimes appear in parks and shopping centres in December: places and dates change every year, so check on the spot or in the local press. Our guide to Istanbul with children lists indoor visits for when it is cold.
It is cool: in December the average is about 12 °C in the afternoon and 6 to 7 °C at night, with rain on about one day in two (see our guide to the best time to visit Istanbul). Bring a warm coat and waterproof shoes.
New Year's Eve, 31 December
The night of 31 December is one of the liveliest of the year. Istanbulites get together with friends or family over dinner, often with turkey, a Western-inspired dish that has become the New Year's Eve tradition, and wait for the national lottery draw. Restaurants, hotels and clubs offer set-menu evenings with a show, at prices often well above those of an ordinary dinner.
For travellers, there are three ways to spend the evening:
- In a restaurant or hotel with a Bosphorus view: book several weeks ahead, check the price of the menu (drinks included or not) and the cancellation terms.
- On a boat: several companies run dinner cruises on the Bosphorus on 31 December. For the daytime trip, our page on the Bosphorus cruise explains the options; for New Year's Eve, compare offers and read carefully what the price includes.
- In the street: crowds gather at midnight in several districts, notably Taksim, Sultanahmet and along the Bosphorus. The mood is festive, but the streets are very dense and security checks or diversions are possible. Keep your belongings in front of you and agree a meeting point if you are in a group.
Transport timetables may be adapted that night: check the city's announcements before going out, and plan to get back on foot or by taxi, as taxis are hard to find around midnight. For safety in crowds, re-read scams and safety in Istanbul, and for quieter outings afterwards, nightlife in Istanbul.
What is closed around 1 January
1 January is a public holiday in Turkey. Banks and administrations are closed; some restaurants and shops open late or stay closed in the morning. Some sights close on 31 December or 1 January: this is the case of the Rahmi M. Koç Museum (see its page). Check each place's hours before planning your day, and keep the cheaper sights for ordinary days: our budget guide for Istanbul gives benchmarks.
For money and tipping in New Year's Eve restaurants, see money, payment and tipping in Istanbul.
Practical tips
- Accommodation: prices rise and rooms fill up around New Year, especially in Beyoğlu and Sultanahmet. Book early. Our guide to where to stay in Istanbul compares the districts.
- Transport: for the airport, plan ahead for the day before and after 31 December; see from the airport to central Istanbul.
- Weather: have a covered plan B; our guide to what to do in Istanbul when it rains lists indoor visits.
- Dress: modest in church, warm outdoors.
