Cafés and tea houses in Istanbul: Turkish coffee, çay and the nargile

In Istanbul, people drink tea all day and Turkish coffee after a meal: the two drinks set the rhythm of the city, in the bazaars, on the ferries and on waterfront terraces. This guide explains how to order them, the differences between a tea house, a café and a "kıraathane" (reading café), where to sit by district, and how to approach the nargile. No prices are given: they vary a great deal by district and with inflation, and the menus posted on site are the reference; compare before you sit down.

Çay, Turkish tea

Tea (çay) is the everyday drink: it is served black and strong, in a small tulip-shaped glass with a narrow waist (ince belli), on a saucer, with two sugar cubes. It is made in a double teapot (çaydanlık): the kettle below and the teapot above, so the strength can be adjusted by topping up with hot water ("açık" for a light tea, "koyu" for a stronger one). Ordering "bir çay" (one tea) is enough. In a shop in the Grand Bazaar, a free tea is often part of the bargaining: you can accept without any obligation to buy. In a tea house or on a ferry, you pay when you order or at the end of the crossing.

Turkish coffee

Turkish coffee is made in a small long-handled pot (cezve), with very finely ground coffee, water and, to taste, sugar, heated slowly until the foam rises. It is served unfiltered in a small cup, with a glass of water and often a piece of Turkish delight. Its culture and tradition have been on UNESCO's intangible cultural heritage list since 2013. The sugar level is specified when ordering: "sade" (no sugar), "az şekerli" (lightly sweet), "orta" (medium) or "çok şekerli" (very sweet). Let the grounds settle before drinking and do not drink them: tradition has it that one then reads the future in the cup (kahve falı).

Turkish coffee served with a glass of water and a piece of Turkish delight

Which kind of place to choose

The tea house (çay bahçesi, çayevi): a garden or a simple room, where you drink tea and eat a cake or a börek. The atmosphere is local.
The café (kahvehane): a traditional place, often frequented by men playing backgammon (tavla) or cards. Visitors are welcome.
The reading café (kıraathane): a café with newspapers and books, with tea, coffee and board games, heir to the first Ottoman coffeehouses.
The modern café: specialty cafés and terrace cafés in Karaköy, Cihangir and Kadıköy, closer to Western habits.

Where to sit by district

Sultanahmet and Eminönü: the Spice Bazaar and the lanes around it hold several historic coffee businesses. Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, founded in 1871, sells famous ground coffee in Tahmis Street, with a queue spilling onto the pavement. See the Spice Bazaar page.
Grand Bazaar: the Grand Bazaar has cafés in the heart of its alleys, very handy for a break between shops.
Beyoğlu and İstiklal: İstiklal Avenue is lined with cafés, including Mandabatmaz, in a neighbouring passage, known for its very thick Turkish coffee; check the address on site.
Galata and Karaköy: specialty cafés and terraces on the slopes of Galata; see our guide to the Galata and Karaköy district.
Eyüp: the café on Pierre Loti Hill overlooks the Golden Horn; it is a tea spot at sunset, with a page on Eyüp and Pierre Loti Hill.
Asian side: in Üsküdar and Kadıköy, the waterfront tea houses and the terraces of Moda are used by locals; see our guide to Kadıköy and the Asian side and the Üsküdar page.

The nargile (hookah)

The nargile, a water pipe burning flavoured tobacco, is smoked in dedicated lounges, notably in Tophane near Karaköy, and in some courtyards in Sultanahmet. It is a common practice, but not harmless to health: it contains tobacco, and the smoke is no less harmful than cigarette smoke. Ask the price before ordering: some tourist venues charge a high unposted rate, and you should avoid those that show no prices (see scams and safety).

Winter drinks and other coffees

In winter, salep, a thick hot drink flavoured with cinnamon, is sold in cafés and at markets. Cafés also serve "dibek" or "menengiç" coffee (made from terebinth), a caffeine-free alternative; these drinks are rarer and are found in specialty cafés.

Our tips

A Turkish-style break: order a tea and a coffee together and take your time: nobody will rush you.
Avoid traps: be wary of anyone who invites you into a café or bar after approaching you in the street; always check prices before ordering.
During Ramadan: opening hours of cafés and tea houses change, with big crowds at sunset, when the fast is broken. See Ramadan in Istanbul.
A break with the family: see our guide to Istanbul with children.