People often say "Turkish cuisine"; in Istanbul they also say Ottoman cuisine, the food of the Topkapı Palace kitchens, where hundreds of cooks prepared the meals of the sultan and his court. It is made of slow-cooked stews, meat scented with dried fruit, saffron rice and rose-flavoured desserts. A handful of restaurants in the city still serve it in rooms with a history. This guide presents the best-known addresses, the dishes to order and how to avoid choosing the wrong table. We give no prices: menus change several times a year with inflation, and prices should be checked on the spot or with the restaurant. For everyday food and street food, see our guide to what to eat in Istanbul. ## What makes Ottoman cuisine  Palace cooking was built over almost five centuries, in contact with Anatolian, Balkan, Arab and Mediterranean cuisines. Its most recognisable traits: - **the mix of savoury and sweet**: lamb with dried apricots, plums or raisins, rice scented with cinnamon and pine nuts; - **long slow cooking**, like "tandır" lamb braised until it falls off the bone; - **purées and creams**, including the smoked aubergine and cheese purée that goes with the sultan's lamb; - **desserts based on milk, dried fruit and syrup**, up to baklava (see our guide to pastries and baklava). Two things should be told apart. Court cooking proper survives only in a few restaurants that rebuild recipes from manuscripts. The **lokanta** and the "traditional" restaurants serve classic Istanbul cooking instead, inherited from the palace, simplified and closer to what locals eat. ## The historic restaurants ### Asitane, the palace recipes Housed in the Kariye hotel in Edirnekapı, a short walk from the Chora church, Asitane is the best-known restaurant for a menu built on recipes from the imperial kitchens, taken from Ottoman manuscripts. Its menu includes set menus tied to historic banquets, and the dishes are presented with their origin. It is a good address after visiting Chora, in a district with few restaurants, but the table costs more than average: check the menu before booking. ### Pandeli, above the Spice Bazaar You reach Pandeli by a staircase that climbs from the entrance of the Spice Bazaar in Eminönü. Opened in 1901 according to the house, the restaurant occupies several vaulted rooms covered in blue tiles, above the bazaar. It serves classic Ottoman cooking, with fish and meat dishes; it is usually closed on Sundays, but check the opening days before going up. Book ahead if you come at lunchtime on a busy day. ### Hacı Abdullah, the lokanta of 1888 In the Sakızağacı district, near Taksim and İstiklal, Hacı Abdullah is presented as one of the oldest lokanta in the city, opened in 1888. Its decor of jars of fruit in syrup and pickles, its dishes on display and its homemade desserts make it an unpretentious stop for Ottoman cooking. You will find **dolma**, slow-cooked lamb and beef dishes and quince or apricot compotes. ### Hünkar, the Nişantaşı table In Nişantaşı, Hünkar serves dishes from palace cooking, above all the **hünkâr beğendi**, its signature dish. It is a neighbourhood table, used by the residents of the elegant district described in our page on Nişantaşı. It fits easily into a day at the Pera Museum or the Sakıp Sabancı Museum. ### Konyalı, the Topkapı terrace Inside the Topkapı Palace, the Konyalı restaurant overlooks the Bosphorus from its terrace. The setting and the view are worth the stop more than the food, which is classic and pricier than average; plan it as a break during the visit rather than a gourmet meal. Its hours follow those of the palace: check them. ### Addresses not to confuse In Sultanahmet many restaurants advertise "Ottoman cuisine" on terraces facing Hagia Sophia. The setting is real, but the menu is often designed for groups. For good everyday cooking, prefer the lokanta of Kadıköy or Galata (see Galata and Karaköy). ## Dishes to order | Dish | What it is | |---|---| | Hünkâr beğendi | "The sultan's delight": lamb stew on a purée of smoked aubergine and cheese | | Kuzu tandır | Lamb braised for hours, so tender it comes apart with a fork | | Etli yaprak sarma | Vine leaves stuffed with meat and rice, served hot | | Ayva tatlısı | Quince poached in syrup, served with kaymak (thick cream) | | Zerde | Saffron rice pudding, a festive dish | | Aşure | Pudding of wheat, pulses and dried fruit, made in the month of Muharram | | Tavuk göğsü | Milk cream with shredded chicken breast, a palace dessert | Hünkâr beğendi is the one to taste first: it holds the idea of Ottoman cooking in a single dish. **Aşure**, however, is not served all year in restaurants. ## Tips for choosing well - **Read the menu before sitting down**: ask the prices of dishes sold "by weight" (fish, meat) and of the cover charge, and check the bill, as explained in our guide to scams and safety in Istanbul. - **Book in the evening** at the restaurants above, especially at weekends; at lunchtime most tables can be had without a reservation. - **Eat at lunchtime** if you want to pay less: lunch menus and dishes on display are usually more affordable than dinner. - **During Ramadan**, some places offer iftar menus: see Ramadan in Istanbul. - **Tipping** is explained in money, payment and tipping. ## Going further To combine meals and sights, the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar can be visited on foot before or after lunch at Pandeli. To sleep within walking distance of these districts, see where to stay in Istanbul. Historic pastry shops are the subject of our guide to baklava, Turkish delight and pastries, and vegetarian tables of our guide to eating vegetarian in Istanbul.
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