| Dish | What it is | Best for | Where and when |
|---|---|---|---|
| Simit | Sesame bread ring | Everyone | Everywhere, mornings |
| Balık ekmek | Grilled fish in a bread roll | Everyone | Eminönü, Kadıköy |
| Kumpir | Big baked potato with toppings | Vegetarians, children | Ortaköy |
| Midye dolma | Rice-stuffed mussels, lemon | The curious | İstiklal, Kadıköy, evenings |
| Kokoreç | Grilled lamb offal sandwich | The bold | Beyoğlu, evenings |
| Islak burger | Small "wet" burger in tomato sauce | The curious, late night | Taksim, after going out |
Where to start
Simit and balık ekmek
Simit is the street breakfast: see simit, börek and bakeries. Balık ekmek is grilled fish served in half a loaf with salad and lemon; eat it in Eminönü at the foot of the Galata Bridge, or in Kadıköy near the fish market. Avoid the boats whose touts shout loudest, and ask the price before you take anything.
Kumpir and islak burger
Kumpir is an oven-baked potato filled to order; Ortaköy is the classic spot. The islak burger ("wet" burger) is a steamed bun in tomato and garlic sauce, known as a late-night snack in Taksim.
The two evening stars
Midye dolma
The mussels are stuffed with spiced rice, opened by hand and squeezed with lemon. The risk is freshness: buy from a very busy vendor, eat them straight away and avoid any left waiting in the sun, especially in summer. If your stomach is delicate, skip them. Vendors often count the shells you have eaten: agree the number and the price before you start.
Kokoreç
Lamb intestines and offal wrapped on a skewer, grilled then chopped into half a loaf with spices. The taste is strong and fatty. Try a half portion at a stand where you can see the skewer turning, preferably in the evening around Beyoğlu.
Practical tips
- Always ask the price before ordering; see also scams and safety in Istanbul.
- Pick stands busy with locals.
- Keep small notes to pay.
- To eat without meat, see eating vegetarian in Istanbul.
Going further
To taste things in the right order with a guide, the Kadıköy food tour and our comparison of food tours help you avoid mistakes. Otherwise, read what to eat in Istanbul.
