The Bosphorus European shore: from Ortaköy to Sarıyer, village by village

Understanding the European shore

The Bosphorus separates Europe from Asia over about thirty kilometres. On the European side, a single road follows the water and links the villages, squeezed between the strait and wooded hills. The road is beautiful but jammed in the late afternoon and at weekends: it is better to go by bus, ferry or, for short stretches, on foot. The Asian shore, seen from these villages, has its own guide: Asian shore of the Bosphorus.

Allow a full day for three or four villages, or two half-days: Ortaköy, Arnavutköy and Bebek on one side; Rumeli Hisarı, Emirgan and Sarıyer on the other.

Getting there and getting around

• Bus: from Kabataş (terminus of the T1 tram), bus 25E follows the coastal road through Ortaköy, Arnavutköy and Bebek, then continues north. Buses and dolmuş also leave from Beşiktaş. All are paid with the Istanbulkart: see our guide to transport in Istanbul.
• Ferry: the Şehir Hatları long cruise calls at several villages on the European and Asian shores, with timetables that change by season; check them on the company's website. See also the Bosphorus cruise.
• Taxi: handy for going up to Sarıyer, but the meter climbs in traffic jams; ask for the meter to be switched on.
• On foot: the seafront is pedestrian in stretches, notably from Arnavutköy to Rumeli Hisarı via Bebek.

Ortaköy

The Ortaköy mosque, at the water's edge, is the village's most famous image, with the Bosphorus Bridge behind it: see our Ortaköy Mosque page. The village is known for its kumpir (stuffed baked potatoes), small restaurants, shops and weekend craft market. By day it is very busy; in the evening the terraces look out on the lit-up bridge.

Arnavutköy

The "Albanians' village" is known for its colourful wooden houses and fish restaurants: see the Arnavutköy page. It suits a late-afternoon stroll, with a fish dinner facing the strait.

Bebek

Around its bay, Bebek is the village of cafés, brunches and the seaside walk. See the Bebek page. It is the starting point of the 20-minute walk to Rumeli Hisarı.

Rumeli Hisarı

The fortress that Mehmed II had built in 1452 overlooks the village of Rumelihisarı: see the Rumeli Hisarı fortress page. It is closed for restoration, but the village, with its waterfront cafés and restaurants, remains a destination, especially for Turkish breakfast: see our guide to Turkish breakfast in Istanbul.

Emirgan

Further north, Emirgan is best known for its park, very busy during the tulip festival in April: see the Emirgan Park page. The park has wooden pavilions, ponds and lawns, and is continued by cafés along the road. Right next to it, the Sakıp Sabancı Museum occupies a roadside mansion.

Yeniköy, Tarabya and Büyükdere

These three villages line bays and some of the most imposing yalı on the strait. Yeniköy and Tarabya, traditionally residential, offer restaurants, hotels and seafront promenades. Büyükdere is quieter. They are best seen by car, bus or from the water, since the road is narrow and there are no sites to visit, but the waterfronts are worth a stop for a fish lunch.

Sarıyer

At the north of the European shore, Sarıyer is a genuine fishing town, with its harbour, fish market and restaurants facing the strait. It is known for its milk-based pastries and its fishmongers: stop for a fish sandwich or a lunch on the harbour. Further north still, the road continues to Rumeli Kavağı and the Black Sea.

A possible itinerary

1. In the morning, bus 25E from Kabataş to Ortaköy: coffee and a view of the bridge.
2. Arnavutköy on foot, then Bebek along the seafront promenade.
3. Fish lunch in Arnavutköy or Bebek.
4. In the afternoon, Rumeli Hisarı on foot, then a bus to Emirgan and its park.
5. Late in the day, bus or taxi to Sarıyer for a fish dinner on the harbour.

Practical tips

• Best time: on weekdays, outside rush hours; in spring for Judas trees and tulips; in summer for the terraces.
• Where to eat: fish is sold by weight, so ask the price before ordering. For customs, see our guide to money, payment and tipping in Istanbul and our guide to where to eat fish in Istanbul.
• Where to stay: the villages are lovely but far from the main sights; our guide to where to stay in Istanbul compares the districts.
• Going further: to see these villages from the water, the long cruise passes in front of almost all of them.

Summary

Going further

Across the strait, Kuzguncuk and the Asian-shore villages complete the visit. To see both shores in one go, take the Bosphorus cruise.