The addresses cited, by area

Eminönü and the old city

Hamdi Restaurant, in Eminönü, is cited for its Birecik kebab and clay-pot dishes to order in advance; book and ask for a table with a view. Guides also cite Şehzade Cağ Kebap (wood-fired cağ kebap). See also where to eat in Eminönü.

Beyoğlu: the ocakbaşı

Zübeyir Ocakbaşı is known for grills under copper hoods where the meat cooks in front of you; it is very busy in the daytime, so book. Adana Ocakbaşı is cited for its many mezes; the staff speak little English. See where to eat near Taksim.

Samatya, Florya and Kadıköy

Develi (Samatya, a house that began in Gaziantep in 1912) serves south-eastern kebabs and mezes; see Kumkapı, Samatya and Yedikule. Beyti, in Florya, was founded in 1945 and serves the kebab that bears its name; it is pricier and far from the centre. Çiya Kebap, in Kadıköy, cooks Anatolian food: see Kadıköy.

An İskender kebap

Tips for eating well

  • Ask the portion price before ordering; see scams and safety.
  • An ocakbaşı serves salads and mezes first: do not order too many before the skewers.
  • Most restaurants serve alcohol, but not all: see alcohol in Istanbul.
  • Avoid restaurants where a tout pulls you in from the street.

Going further

To taste several specialities with a guide, compare the food tours; otherwise, read what to eat in Istanbul.