Eating inside the Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar itself has a few serious addresses, set in its hans (inner courtyards) and cross lanes rather than on the main arteries.
- Havuzlu Restaurant: a tradesmen's lokanta (esnaf lokantası) in a room decorated with İznik tiles, old prints and carpets, serving some twenty hot and cold dishes of the day. It is the bazaar's best-known address for an everyday Turkish lunch; arrive before 2 pm.
- Şark Kahvesi: a historic café a couple of steps from Havuzlu, where you drink tea or Turkish coffee between two shops in an old-fashioned setting. It is a break, not a meal.
- Cafés and tradesmen's suppliers: the bazaar's shopkeepers have tea delivered on trays and dishes from neighbouring lokantas. A simple tea at a shop is often offered during a purchase, with no obligation.
Avoid restaurants and terraces right next to the big gates or on the busiest arteries: their menus are designed for groups.
Around the gates: Beyazıt, Nuruosmaniye and Çarşıkapı
On the west side, Beyazıt Square and the Beyazıt II Mosque surround the Sahaflar book market; under the trees, small cafés serve tea, coffee and snacks. On the south-east side, the Nuruosmaniye Gate, next to the Nuruosmaniye Mosque, leads to streets of shops and grills. On Çarşıkapı Street, on the Çemberlitaş side, small canteens outnumber the tourist restaurants: choose those that display their menu or their dishes in the window.
Towards Mercan, Tahmis and Eminönü
Going down from the bazaar towards the Golden Horn along Mercan Street, you reach the neighbourhood's wholesale shops. Tahmis Street, near the Spice Bazaar, has coffee roasters, grocers and small dining rooms: it is the place for freshly ground Turkish coffee and a midday kebab. For the restaurants above the Spice Bazaar and the overall layout of Eminönü, see our guide to the Eminönü and Sirkeci district.
Towards Süleymaniye, Vefa and Zeyrek
To the north, the hill of the Süleymaniye Mosque is the right direction for local food: several kuru fasulyeci (restaurants specialising in slow-cooked white beans) face each other, and further down, in Vefa, the boza shop Vefa Bozacısı has sold this fermented winter drink since 1876. Our guide to the area around the Süleymaniye covers this district in detail.
Traps to avoid
- The waiter at the door: a restaurateur who approaches you in several languages and offers a "table with a view" or a "special price" usually offers neither. Ask for the printed menu.
- Dishes without prices: fish, meat by weight, all-you-can-eat mezze: ask for the total price before ordering.
- Free tea and coffee: accept them if you wish, but know that they often come with a sales pitch.
- Bread and "welcome" mezze: some restaurants put them on the table without you asking, then charge for them. Refuse what you do not want.
- Self-appointed guides who offer to "show you a good restaurant" earn a commission. See our guide to scams and safety in Istanbul.
When to come and how to plan
The Grand Bazaar closes on Sundays and on the first day of the major religious holidays: check our public holidays and bayrams in Istanbul before planning. Have lunch before 1:30 pm or after 2:30 pm to avoid the crowd, and keep mezze and sweets for the end of the visit. To find out which dishes to order, see our guide what to eat in Istanbul; for tea or coffee, our cafés and tea rooms in Istanbul.
Going further
Combine your lunch with a walk to the Süleymaniye Mosque or to the streets of Sultanahmet. For the bazaar's hours and rules, see the Grand Bazaar page.
